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The Berlin Conference Mural

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The Berlin Conference convened by the Germans took place from November 1884 until February 1885.  It was prompted by King Leopold’s actions in the Congo which makes Congo central to the story of the partitioning of Africa.  According to historical sources, the Berlin Conference did not partition the continent - that process was already underway on the ground with European nations establishing their spheres of influence.  It merely formalized the partitioning and carved up the continent between major imperial powers. Not far from Mavré pharmacy in Brazzaville, stands a tiled mural - a moving and evocative tribute to the Berlin Conference.  The images painted on the tiles portray slave trade and subsequent colonial domination by Europe.  One picture depicts the European leaders gathered around a table, their hands like claws and faces vulture-like. Another, Africans carrying heavy loads to be taken to Europe to satisfy the need for raw materials in the age of industrial revolution. There
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Maty

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A day at Maty is an easy day trip out of Brazzaville. The road is decent, except for the last 6 km where you are driving through fairly deep sand. 4WD with high clearance is a must and I do not recommend going during the rainy season.  Maty is a small, friendly  village nestled in a valley surrounded by tropical forest and fields.  It is clean and well organized.  Its main attraction is an easy access to the Maty river.  A while ago, the rich of Brazzaville, both local and expat, bought plots of land along the river and now they are renting those to the public. You can come with friends, you can come by yourself, or you can arrange a trip with a tour company, in which case they will bring a cook and serve you elaborate lunch at the river. You could even camp here overnight.  The river has a strong current, so one can’t really swim in it but it is great for a dip. We brought games, blankets and books to read. It was a very pleasant and relaxing day.
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Volunteer opportunities in Brazzaville

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  Actions de Solidarité Internationale On March 5th, 2021, I led the delegation of the embassy personnel to the site of a French NGO, Actions de Solidarité Internationale (ASI). The American families at post expressed interest in making a donation to a worthy cause and our Community Liaison Officer (CLO) extraordinaire found this French NGO as a potential recipient of the donation.  The organization has been in existence since 1983 when it opened its first office in Burkina Faso. The first Congo office opened in 2006 with a particular interest and emphasis on helping vulnerable girls and women who often end up on the streets, with small children.  I particularly like their motto “We are no longer needed” as to me it embodies the basic idea behind international development - to help create effective programs in the host country which can eventually be sustained by local staff and operate independently. Our visit was a success - we got to tour the site and meet the women who benefit from
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It's a pet's life!

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When you drive around the city, especially early in the morning, you will see street dogs, sometimes in groups, sometimes solitary.  They live on the periphery of humans, hoping to survive on the scraps.  And somehow they do! When we first moved into our neighborhood we noticed an older dog jumping on three legs.  We thought for sure he wouldn't survive long…  It is now two years later and he is still around.  Sleeping under cars, crossing a busy street near vendors selling grilled chicken.  He never pays much attention to humans or other dogs.  He just exists, a weird outsider…  There are kind people around town too, like the owner of Mikhael’s hotel.  Many street dogs hang out around that part of t own because they get fed with the hotel scraps . In general, the Congolese fear all dogs, especially the big ones. When I walk Nala, our golden retriever, people cross the street or shriek and jump in a mixture of fear and surprise. It is not uncommon to see people chase the dogs away,
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Lésio-Louna / Léfini Nature Reserve

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The Lésio-Louna natural reserve is located about 3.5 hours from Brazzaville, within the La Léfini Wildlife Reserve.  Most of the road (N2) is new and smooth, except for a few parts where the surface is currently being redone and you are driving through white, chalky dirt.  Once you turn off the N2 towards Abio (about 12 km from the destination), you will need a 4WD and it is NOT recommended to visit during the rainy season. It takes about 35 minutes to drive those last 12 km. Abio Boats we took to see the gorillas on the island We first travelled to Abio where we got on boats to visit three silverbacks and two young gorillas w ho live on a 23 acre island, on the edge of the Lesio-Louna reserve.  Two of the gorillas, Fubu and Kebu, were transported to the Republic of Congo on October 18, 2017 from Howletts Park in Kent as part of the Aspinall Foundation* project to return gorillas to the wild.  The idea is that eventually they will be released to join other lowland gorillas living free
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Catholic Mission in Linzolo

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The original chapel, rebuilt after the fire The town of Linzolo, located 25 km south west of Brazzaville was the chosen site between 1881 and 1883 for the founding of the oldest Catholic Mission in the Congo. The town is in the middle of an agricultural area - the region’s inhabitants, the Teke people, together with the Lari and the Sundi grow manioc, yams, maize, avocado, safou and ground nuts. The Mission of Linzolo was founded by Monsignor Prosper Augouard, the Catholic Biship of the Congo on January 22, 1884. Father Augouard first established a temporary camp while he negotiated the purchase of the land with the local chiefs,Ngandziamo and Mubimunu Kahunga. After lengthy discussions they agreed on the deal and to finalize the agreement, a peace treaty was signed with the chiefs of the Pool region who symbolically buried their weapons on the mission’s central square on February 25, 1885. The grotto The first chapel was completed in 1885. It was the oldest building in the country
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Chutes de Loufoulakari

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Top of the falls Although the Loufoulakari Falls lie only 80 km south west of Brazzaville the journey there takes almost 4 hours during the dry season.  In the rainy season the road is pretty much impassable, even with a 4W drive vehicle. Believe me, we tried! The waterfalls are set against the backdrop of a natural staircase formed by huge blocks of sandstone.  They lie at the point where the Loufoulakari River and the Congo River meet. There are three drops that are considered part of the falls.  One is right next to the parking lot, so you are greeted right away by a spectacular view.   You can then take a short hike to the second drop just as picturesque as the first, with another small, double tier waterfall partially hidden in the forest. Large rocks allow a descent to the bottom where the water calms for a bit before hitting the third and final drop.  The road to the falls during the rainy season To get to this one, you hike about 5 minutes through the forest, amongst large ro
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